History Early Bustle

When the hoop skirt lost popularity it was replaced by a framework known as the bustle. The overall shape was full in front and even more fabric to the back. Most dresses were trained, but "walking dresses" were just floor length.

The look was basically one of horizontal lines to the trims and necklines. Overskirts (tunics) became a must, and if one was not worn, one could be simulated with trimmings. Trimmings galore were added to all but the plainest dresses.

At right -1870 day dress.

In 1870-1871, most bodices ended at the natural waist. The overskirt (tunic) would then be fitted over the bodice, showing a belt and often a large bow behind. A detatched basque (a very short overkirt) became very fashionable. This basque soon became attached to the bodice, and the bodices began to extend past the waist and over the hips.

At left - 1870 evening dresses

Sleeves for day wear were often full below the elbow. The fullness could be achieved with a bell shape sleeve, pleats at the elbow, or added ruffles.

At right -1870 day dress.

Evening bodices were off-the-shoulder with trimming framing the neckline. Evening sleeves were small and decorated with ruffles, puffings and bows.

By 1873, bodices bacame longer and longer, and the polonaise was born. A polonaise is like a bodice and overskirt in one garment, in many shapes or styles.

At left -1872 Polonaise house gown.

Skirts began to narrow in the front. The underskrits were often separated into sections, with the front, sides and backs trimmed seaparatley to remarkale effect. More trimmings are added than ever before and often completly cover the entire foundation skirt.

At right - 1874 day dress

Sleeves became narrower to the wrist, though still not tight. The two-piece coat sleeve was found on every garment. Full length sleeves were weighted with heavy complicated cuffs that could extend as high as the elbow.

In 1875, the bustle began to dwindle in size, but the excess fabric remained. A more veritical line started to apear in trimmings.

At left - 1875 evening dress.

For day wear, the neckline could be high (with or with out a collar), square or heart shaped ( in a "V"). Often an open neckline would be filled with a chimisette and full sleeves filled with a linen undersleeve/cuff.

Many petticoats were worn to help keep the dress from trailing throught he dirt. Often dust ruffles were added to the inside of the train to help as well.

Light weight fabrics were popular, especialy for evening wear.

The shoulder line of the bodice still extended slightly past the natural shoulder.

All pictures below - 1876