At left - 1860 fahion plate.

Rows and rows of flounces were added to the skirts, the lighter the fabric, the more flounces.

In 1860, the two Piece coat sleeve was introduced, as wide at the wrist as at the elbow. The Pagodas Sleeve, fitted at the shoulder and full at the wrist remained popular until 1863. The bodice shoulder was still longer than the natural shoulder line.
At left - 1860 day dress.
At right - 1861 day dress.

The bodice for casual attire now ends at the natural waist, straight all around, but the formal bodice often has two long points in front and 1 or 3 long points in the back. A new style of casual wear consits of a jacket, long or cropped, worn over a blouse, aka Garibaldi blouse.

By 1863, the hoops took on an eliptical shape, with the back fuller that the front. The skirts are often gored in the front and sides, the back are still straight breads of fabric.   During the Civil War, hardships caused a decline in the amount of fabrics and trimmings used in the dresses.  The excessive flounces became fewer and finally disapeared.

In 1864, the 2-piece coat sleeve began to taper at the wrist, and widen at the elbow. The Bishop sleeve, gathered at both wrist and at shoulder, became popular. The bodice ending at the waist became more popular for formal attire. Mr. Worth designed Princess seamed garments.  This line was applied to full length dresses as well as outer wear garments.

In 1865 skirt widths began to deminish at the hips, all the panels gored to almost fit the waist, leaving a conical shaped skirt.  1867 saw a reduction in skirt size all together. The skirts were often looped up for walking, showing a pretty petticoat, leading to the introduction of the overskirt. In 1868, skirt backs were once again cut in straight breadths, and by 1869, the hoop is replaced with the bustle.